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Bathroom Storage Cabinet in the Houston Metro
Plenty of Houston bathrooms hold a storage cabinet that is halfway sound. The box is fine, the doors sag, the drawer glides grind, and the bottom rail has gone soft where a mop lives. Whether that is a repair, a reface or a tear…
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- 20+ years remodeling
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- 102 ZIP codes covered
In short
The assessment happens first, with a torch and a screwdriver. Doors come off, drawers come out, and the box gets looked at from the inside: material at the cut edges, condition of the deck under the sink, whether the back panel is still fastened, whether the cabinet is screwed into framing or…
What the work involves
The assessment happens first, with a torch and a screwdriver. Doors come off, drawers come out, and the box gets looked at from the inside: material at the cut edges, condition of the deck under the sink, whether the back panel is still fastened, whether the cabinet is screwed into framing or floating on the drywall. A moisture meter at the base and under the trap tells you whether a slow leak has already been at work.
If it is sound, the repair path is real work rather than cosmetics: new concealed hinges adjusted to close square, full extension soft close slides, rebuilt or replaced drawer boxes, shelf pins swapped for stainless, a sealed and repaired toe kick, then new doors and drawer fronts and a finish that suits a wet room. If it is not sound, the box comes out, the wall and floor behind it are repaired, blocking is added where a tall unit needs it, and the new cabinet is set level, scribed to the wall and screwed to framing through the back rails.
What gets specified, and why
Material is the deciding evidence. A three quarter inch plywood box, birch or maple veneered, with a finished interior, is worth refacing because the structure will outlast several sets of doors. Particleboard and melamine boxes are fine while dry and unsalvageable once wet, since swollen board cannot be sanded back or glued. MDF doors are actually excellent for paint and stay flat, but their bottom edges must be sealed. Thermofoil doors are the common failure in 2000s builder baths: the film lifts at the edges near heat and steam and cannot be repaired, only replaced. On the reface path, the upgrade that matters most is hardware, meaning concealed soft close hinges and undermount full extension slides, plus stainless or coated shelf pins, since chrome plated steel pins corrode in a bathroom. Finish choice separates outcomes as well. A factory catalysed finish on new doors resists moisture better than site brushed enamel, though a good waterborne alkyd applied properly is a legitimate second.
Why the Gulf Coast changes this job
Two Houston conditions decide this more often than age does. The first is humidity, which finds particleboard through unsealed edges and never leaves. A builder grade vanity with a raw cut around the sink bowl absorbs moisture at that edge for years and eventually crumbles there, and that is a replacement, not a repair. The second is slab movement. Cabinets set true on an expansive clay slab go out of true as the house cycles, which is why doors that used to close flush start rubbing at one corner. That is an adjustment at the hinge, not a failed cabinet, and it is the most common reason people think a cabinet is finished when it is not. In flood exposed parts of the metro there is a third factor: a cabinet that has been standing in water, even briefly, should be opened up and checked at the deck and base rather than dried and hoped for. Hard water contributes at the edges by pitting cheap hardware.
Where these jobs go wrong
Refacing a box that has already taken water. It looks like a saving and turns into the same job again with new doors wasted. Deciding by age instead of by material, so a solid twenty year old plywood cabinet gets binned while a five year old particleboard one gets expensive new doors. Reusing worn slides because the drawers still move. Screwing a tall cabinet to drywall anchors instead of framing, which works until it is loaded with towels. Scribing a new cabinet tight to a wall with no filler, so the first seasonal slab movement opens a visible gap with nowhere to go. Leaving the toe kick unsealed at the floor, where mop water sits. Cutting a recess for a medicine cabinet into the wall directly above the sink without checking what is behind it, since that is normally where the vent stack runs. Ignoring the reason the old cabinet failed, usually a weeping supply connection or a loose trap, so the new one starts down the same road.
What moves the price
The single largest fork is whether the box stays. Refacing a sound plywood carcass with new doors, fronts and hardware costs a fraction of removal and replacement with new countertop, plumbing disconnection and wall repair. After that, drawers move the price more than doors do, because a drawer is a box, a front and a pair of slides rather than a panel and two hinges. Painted finishes cost more than stained on the same door. Tall and floor to ceiling units add material and the blocking to hold them. Any change that moves plumbing or adds an outlet brings in another trade. Older houses add discovery cost, since disturbing galvanised supply lines or a cast iron drain to move a vanity often means replacing the section you touched.
How a project runs
We start by opening the cabinet up, checking the box material at the edges, testing for moisture at the base and under the trap, and looking at how it is fixed to the wall. That produces a straight recommendation with reasons, not a preference. If refacing, doors and hardware are ordered to measured openings and the room stays usable through most of the work. If replacing, the sequence is disconnect, remove, repair wall and floor, add blocking, set level and scribe, then trim, plumb and adjust. Call (281) 235-6971 to have the cabinet looked at before deciding.
Common questions
How do I know if my cabinet box is plywood or particleboard?
Look at an unfinished edge, usually inside the sink cutout or at the back of a drawer opening. Plywood shows thin continuous layers. Particleboard shows compressed chips, and melamine shows a thin plastic skin over that chip core. It is the fastest reliable test, and it usually decides whether refacing is worth doing.
My doors rub and will not close square. Is the cabinet failing?
Usually not. On a slab that moves seasonally, cabinets go slightly out of true and concealed hinges drift. Most European hinges adjust in three directions with a screwdriver, and a rub at one corner is normally a five minute correction rather than evidence of a failed box. Persistent racking, especially with a soft base, is a different matter.
Is it worth replacing just the drawer hardware?
Often yes. Swapping worn side mount slides for undermount full extension soft close units changes how the cabinet feels more than a new front does, provided the drawer boxes themselves are sound and square. The constraint is clearance, since undermount slides need specific box dimensions, so boxes sometimes get rebuilt at the same time.
Can a swollen bottom panel under the sink be repaired?
If it is plywood and the swelling is minor, the deck can sometimes be cut out and replaced with a new sealed panel. If it is particleboard, no. The board has lost its structure and will keep breaking down. In that case the honest answer is replacement, along with fixing whatever leak caused it.
Bathroom Storage Cabinet by location
We cover 102 ZIP codes across the Houston metro. Pick the area closest to you:
- Bellaire 77401
- Brookshire 77423
- Cypress 77429
- Cypress 77433
- Fresno 77545
- Fulshear 77441
- Houston 77002
- Houston 77003
- Houston 77004
- Houston 77005
- Houston 77006
- Houston 77007
- Houston 77008
- Houston 77009
- Houston 77010
- Houston 77011
- Houston 77014
- Houston 77016
- Houston 77018
- Houston 77019
- Houston 77020
- Houston 77021
- Houston 77022
- Houston 77023
- Houston 77024
- Houston 77025
- Houston 77026
- Houston 77027
- Houston 77028
- Houston 77030
- Houston 77031
- Houston 77033
- Houston 77035
- Houston 77036
- Houston 77037
- Houston 77038
- Houston 77039
- Houston 77040
- Houston 77041
- Houston 77042
- Houston 77043
- Houston 77045
- Houston 77046
- Houston 77047
- Houston 77048
- Houston 77051
- Houston 77053
- Houston 77054
- Houston 77055
- Houston 77056
- Houston 77057
- Houston 77060
- Houston 77063
- Houston 77064
- Houston 77065
- Houston 77066
- Houston 77067
- Houston 77068
- Houston 77069
- Houston 77070
- Houston 77071
- Houston 77072
- Houston 77074
- Houston 77076
- Houston 77077
- Houston 77079
- Houston 77080
- Houston 77081
- Houston 77082
- Houston 77083
- Houston 77084
- Houston 77085
- Houston 77086
- Houston 77087
- Houston 77088
- Houston 77090
- Houston 77091
- Houston 77092
- Houston 77093
- Houston 77094
- Houston 77095
- Houston 77096
- Houston 77098
- Houston 77099
- Houston 77204
- Katy 77449
- Katy 77450
- Katy 77493
- Katy 77494
- Missouri City 77459
- Missouri City 77489
- Orchard 77464
- Richmond 77406
- Richmond 77469
- Rosenberg 77471
- Simonton 77476
- Spring 77379
- Stafford 77477
- Sugar Land 77478
- Sugar Land 77479
- Thompsons 77481
- Tomball 77377
Planning bathroom storage cabinet?
We measure, look at the slab and the existing rough-in, and give you a scope you can actually compare against another bid.
MS Home Remodeling · 1530 W Sam Houston Pkwy N, Houston, TX 77043 · (281) 235-6971